Flannel - A Cotton Fabric That Is Rich And Fluffy After Brushing

Flannel refers to a cotton fabric with a rich and fluffy surface after brushing. Through the pinhole tufting process on the surface of the cloth, more fluff is produced, with strong three-dimensional effect, high gloss, and soft and thick touch.

Velveteen is a flannel with relatively low wool height. As far as flannel is concerned, there is also cleaning fleece for cleaning. The wool height is higher, and there are both woven and knitted, and there are also high and low grades. In terms of origin, there are fewer producers in the north, Shandong Yishui Hengtai and Tianjin Zhongchang have larger production scales, and in the south there are more producers in Hangzhou and Jiaxing, forming a certain scale and the overall industrial chain is relatively complete.

The flannel is soft, comfortable to wear, and has good warmth retention. It is suitable for winter underwear and pajamas. Printed flannel and yarn-dyed striped flannel are suitable for spring and autumn outerwear for women and children. Flannel printed with images of animals, flowers and fairy tales, also known as Beibei velvet, is suitable for children. Natural velvet, bleached velvet, assorted velvet, and sesame velvet are generally used for winter clothing, gloves, shoe and hat clips, etc. The fluffing of the flannel is formed by the repeated action of the wire needle tip of the brushing machine, and a part of the fibers are pulled up on the surface of the grey cloth. The fluff needs to be short, dense and uniform.

Printed fleece is brushed before printing, and bleached and variegated fleece is brushed at the end. The warp yarn used in the grey fabric of the flannel should be fine; the weft yarn should be thick and less twisted. The cotton fiber for weft spinning should be thick and have good uniformity. The warp density of the fabric is smaller, and the weft density is larger, so that the weft yarns appear on the surface, which is conducive to the formation of plump and uniform piles of the weft yarn cotton fibers. After the fleece is brushed, the weft strength loss is relatively large, so it is very important to master the quality of cotton yarn and the operation of the brushing process. Fluffed cotton, piled on one or both sides, especially for underwear and pajamas.

Flannels include velveteen, velvet, flocking, tufting, polyester silk fabrics, knitted fabrics, cotton fabrics, velvet fabrics, warp knitted fabrics (the latest varieties, with 50D polyester FDY yarn and DTY75D/36F[ Strong mesh] as raw material, using knitted chain structure, the fabric has undergone deep processing such as scouring and desizing, setting, dyeing, soft finishing, tenter setting, etc.), hole loop flannel, super soft plush cloth (the latest variety), Short plush cloth (the latest variety), general cotton flannel in winter, velvet, short plush cloth and many other types.

The velveteen is woven with a pile weave and then finished by cutting. The warp and weft yarns of the velveteen are made of high-quality cotton yarns. The velveteen fluff is plump and flat, thick in texture, soft to the touch, soft luster, wear-resistant and durable, good in warmth retention, elastic, and not easy to wrinkle. According to the different raising yarns, it is divided into warp velveteen (cut warp velveteen) and weft velveteen (cut weft velveteen).

A warp velveteen is raised with warp yarns, and is interwoven into a double-layered fabric by two sets of warp yarns (ground warp and pile warp) and a set of weft yarns. The organization generally adopts plain weave, and the V-shaped solidarity method is the main method for the consolidation of the cashmere warp. The arrangement ratio of the ground warp and the cashmere warp is 2:1 and 1:1. The velveteen is divided into train velveteen and mercerized velveteen according to the length of the velvet.

The train velveteen has longer fluff and is often used as train seat cushions; the mercerized velveteen has shorter fluff, has been mercerized and has a bright cloth surface, and is often used for clothing, military collars and decorations. Weft velveteen is raised from weft yarns, which is made up of one set of warp yarns and two sets of weft yarns (ground weft and pile weft), similar to corduroy. The ground weave is mostly plain weave, but also twill weave. V-shaped consolidation method is generally used for fluff consolidation, and the arrangement ratio of ground weft and cashmere weft is 1:3.

The difference between it and corduroy is that the weft and weft tissue points are evenly arranged in a certain law, and the warp and floating points are staggered from each other. Therefore, the weft density is comparable to that of corduroy, the fabric is tight, and the pile is full. Weft velveteen is mainly used for clothing and decoration. When velveteen is washed, it is not advisable to scrub hard, so as not to affect the plumpness and smoothness of the fluff. Velvet is velvet fabric flannel.

Checked velvet mainly refers to the flannel with distinct warp and weft in the weaving process and a dark lattice in the mesoscopic view. Usually, the flannel with the printed and dyed pattern is also called lattice. For daily home use.

Pre-processing process

1. Singeing

Whether the flannel needs to be singed should be decided according to the fabric organization and processing requirements. Under normal circumstances, singeing is not required for flannel, such as printing single-sided velvet, and the printing pattern is printed on the fleece side, and the singeing loses its meaning. However, if the printed single-sided velvet is printed on the velvety side, the velvet side can be singed. Gas singeing is better for singeing, but the size of the flame and the speed of the vehicle should be well controlled, so as to achieve the singeing effect without affecting the fluffing quality.

2. Desizing (scouring)

If the pulp on the flannel is not cleaned, the fibers will be adhered by the pulp, which will affect the fluffing effect. Therefore, the fleece must not only be desizing, but also require a good desizing effect. At the same time, it is required to maintain a certain wax quality on the fabric before flannel brushing, because the existence of wax quality is conducive to the insertion and removal of the raising needle and improves the raising effect. In order to maintain the wax quality of the fabric I:, the general flannel can be scoured without scouring, but without scouring, the impurities on the grey fabric cannot be removed, which will affect the appearance quality of the finished product. For example, from the point of view of improving the desizing effect, the effect of enzyme desizing of starch slurry is better, but enzyme desizing cannot remove impurities, so it is not suitable for use. Practice has proved that using a higher concentration of lye for desizing can not only improve the desizing effect, but also achieve the light scouring effect of removing some impurities, so that the capillary effect can reach 6-8cm/30min.

Generally, secondary rolling alkali is used for stacking, which is more conducive to puffing of cottonseed hulls and improving the quality of flannel semi-finished products. The second rolling soda can use the remaining lye

.

The desizing and scouring methods are nothing more than rope refining and bleaching and flat-width refining and bleaching. The selection should be determined according to the characteristics of the fabric and processing requirements. Usually, except for the denser and thicker fleece, the fleece fabric with a looser structure is generally used. In order to choose rope 1: the art is better. After desizing (scouring), the oil removal rate on the flannel is generally about 45%.

3. Bleaching

Flannel bleaching generally adopts sodium hypochlorite bleaching process. Because the flannel is lightly scoured or not, therefore, in addition to strengthening the desizing process, the bleaching process should also be strengthened, and only in this way can the quality of the semi-finished products of the flannel be guaranteed. Flannel bleaching requires not only the strength of the fabric, but also the required whiteness standard, and the cloth surface should be free of cottonseed husks.

4. Mercerized

After the fabric is mercerized, the yarn twist increases, the fiber expands, and the warp and weft density also changes accordingly. At the same time, mercerization can also remove the natural oil wax on some fabrics, which increases the difficulty of fluffing, so the flannel generally does not need mercerization. of.

However, mercerizing can reduce the shrinkage rate, increase the vividness of colors, and improve the printing effect of printed cloth, so it is worth studying whether the flannel should be mercerized.

5. Fleece

Bleached velvet and dyed velvet generally need to be padded with softener before raising, and bleached velvet should be properly whitened with whitening agent and paint blue liquid, and then raised; printed velvet can generally be raised directly after bleaching and drying. velvet.

(1) Raising equipment. Raising takes place on a brushing machine.

The brushing machine is composed of small rollers wrapped with 36 wire clothings on the circumference of the large roller of the main shaft.

These small rollers are divided into 18 pairs, and the needle tips of each pair of pulling teeth point opposite to each other and rotate in the same direction.

The needle tip points to the opposite direction of the cloth, called the counterclockwise roller, which is customarily called the pull tooth. They not only revolve in the positive direction of the large roller, but also rotate in the opposite direction of the large roller.

In general, the counterclockwise roller is raised, the needle tip is inserted into the weft yarn, and the cilia are pulled out like a hoe turns the ground;

The clockwise roller plays the role of combing to pull out the cilia, but when the peripheral linear speed of the clockwise roller is less than that of the large roller, it also plays the role of hair pulling. The number of fluffing passes is determined by the texture of the fabric, the twist of the yarn count, the condition of scouring and bleaching, and the speed ratio of the clockwise and counterclockwise rollers of the brushing machine. Generally, it is pulled 6 to 8 times on the raising machine.

(2) "Zero point" raising theory. The "zero point" raising theory of raising has certain guiding significance for discussing the size of raising force and production practice. The so-called "zero point" raising means that the fabric is not raised after passing through the brushing machine. Using this method to approximately find the "zero point", the size of the raising force can be controlled. Generally speaking, the raising force is controlled by adjusting the rotation speed of the clockwise and counterclockwise rollers. According to the need, adjusting the speed ratio of the speed change device can be used for raising. The amount of raising is adjusted by the running speed of the fabric. The higher the speed of the brushing machine, the less contact between the needle tip and the fabric, the less the amount of raising is, and vice versa, the amount of raising is increased.

(3) Factors affecting the raising effect. Pad softener before pile is beneficial to pile. Commonly used softeners are actually some emulsifiers, such as paraffin wax, stearic acid, Akrabang A, softener 101 and soap, etc. Among them, softener 101 has a better effect. The dosage of softener 101 is 10～209/L, the temperature is 60～65"12, and the temperature cannot exceed 80°C for a long time, so as to avoid the precipitation of wax. The prepared padding liquid should be white emulsion, if it is turmeric sticky It means that the emulsification is not complete, and it is easy to stain the padding fabric.

②The size of the fabric tension during raising will affect the raising effect, because the resultant force of tension is vertically distributed on the needle tip of raising}: . The higher the tension, the higher the vertical pressure of the fabric on the needle 1 tip, the higher the resistance of the needle roller, the higher the belt slippage, the lower the raising force and the shorter the raising, which is suitable for thin and compact chemical fiber fabrics that are easy to stretch. The tension is small, the raising force is large and uneven, the fabric will jump on the needle roller, and even cause the weft yarn to move, and the suede surface is very uneven like a wave. Therefore, the tension control should be moderate when raising. The method of controlling the fabric tension in the brushing machine E is mainly mastered by the tooth tensioning device of the cloth feeding roller and the cloth discharging roller, and the tension is adjusted appropriately.

③ The moisture content of the fabric before raising and the temperature of the cloth body also affect the raising. The hot fabric is easier to raise than the cold fabric. When the moisture content is 5% to 6%, it can not only eliminate static electricity, but also facilitate raising.

(4) Raising operations and requirements. The raising operation is also very important for the maintenance of the needle rollers. When raising, the needle roller is seriously sucking the cloth, the cloth at the feeding place is jumping violently, there is a pulling phenomenon at the feeding place, and the fluff of the fabric cannot be raised again, the raising should be stopped. Raise again, otherwise it will damage the clothing and the fabric. When raising, it is also necessary to strictly prevent the fabric from breaking, because the broken fabric is wrapped around the counter-clockwise roller, not only the fabric is completely torn, but also the needle roller is seriously injured and even scrapped. During the operation, it should also be noted that the fabric should be moved left and right frequently, which not only ensures the same sharpness of the needle tip, but also ensures the quality of the fabric. In addition, the needle tip of the new needle roller is too sharp and needs to be sharpened before use; generally, the needle tip will become blunt and sharpened after using the raising roller for about half a year.

In the long-term practice of raising, people have accumulated a lot of experience, such as tentering before raising is beneficial to raising, smooth operation should be performed in each raising, and multiple light pulling should be mastered in raising.

Raising requires short, dense and uniform piles. More importantly, you should be careful not to raise too much, otherwise it will seriously affect the strength of the fabric. Generally, the strength should be sampled when the pile is close to the standard. The weft strength after raising should be at least 177N ( 18kgf) or above, otherwise it will affect the fastness.

In the long-term practice, people have summarized the "three attendance" system of attendance inspection, frequent investigation and frequent contact on the raising operation method, which has a good effect on improving and ensuring the raising question.

6. Wash down

After the fabric is raised, the surface has a layer of fluffy fluff, and the fabric feels very soft. There are also some short piles that are pulled off during the raising process and attached to the surface of the flannel. These short piles must be removed, otherwise they will be removed during printing. Causes defects such as dragging color, dragging pulp, intarsia tube and so on. In order to facilitate printing after velvet washing, 8-129/L acorn powder or starch pulp is generally used for sizing.