History of Chinese Textile Fabric
Dec 30, 2022
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Neolithic period
A double strand of Abutilon Abutilon was found at the Hemudu Site in Yuyao, Zhejiang Province about 7000 years ago, with a number 4 carved on an unearthed ivory cup silkworm grain, at the same time unearthed spinning wheels and spinning machine parts. At the site of Wuku Caoshoe Mountain in Jiangsu Province about 6000 years ago, the Luo cloth which is twin-warp twisted and looped with rhomb pattern ground with woven double warp thread density is 10 per cntimeters, the weft thread density is 13 to 14 per cntimeters, and the grain length is 26 to 28 per cntimeters, which is the earliest cotton fiber textile. At the Qingtai Site in Zhengzhou, Henan Province where traced back to 5,500 years ago, ramie and linen patterns and more than 10 red pottery spinning wheels were found, which are the earliest physical objects of silk fabric. Fragments of refined silk fabric were unearthed from Qianshanyang Site in Wuxing, Zhejiang Province where dated to 5000 years ago. The warp and weft density of silk is 48 per cntimeters, and the twist of silk is Z twist. Silk bandwidth 5 mm, with 16 thick and fine silk interwoven is that the projected width of the silk rope is about 3 mm, with 3 silk strands and twisting, twisting to S, twisting degree of 35 or 10 per cntimeters. This indicates that silk reeling, doubling, twisting and other silk weaving techniques had reached a certain level at that time. At the same time, several pieces of reed sackcloth fragments were unearthed, with a warp density of 24 to 31per cntimeters and a weft density of 16 to 20 pieces per cntimeters, this velvet shoes Shan Mo cloth a step further in hemp weaving technology.
The Shang and Zhou Dynasties
During this period, with the further development of social economy, the demand of the royal court for textiles increased day by day. The Zhou rulers set up official posts related to textiles and controlled the production and collection of textiles. There were many kinds of silk fabrics in the Shang and Zhou dynasties. The fabrics found at the west site of Tai in Gaocheng City, Hebei Province, had plain white silk threads, wrinkled silk threads, twisted Luo and three (2 or 1) ring-weave Qi. The silk fabrics attached to the bronze ware in the tomb of Fu Hao in the ruins of Yin in Henan province include yarn silk , vermilion dyed silk, double warp and double wefting, and backweave Qi. There are also silk ropes, ribbons and other objects in the ruins of Yin. Mountain pattern Qi with double weft structure was unearthed from the Western Zhou Dynasty tomb in Rujiazhuang, Baoji, Shaanxi Debris. Into the Spring and Autumn Period, silk is rich and varied, Hunan Changsha Chumo out ten geometric brocade, dragon and phoenix brocade. A large number of beautiful embroidery items were unearthed from the Chu tomb in Jiangling, Hubei Province. The number of woolen fabrics unearthed from Alagou tombs in Turpan, Xinjiang was the largest, and the varieties and textile techniques of woolen fabrics were better than those unearthed from Hami Wubao site.
Han dynasty
The silk and hemp textiles unearthed from the Han Tomb of Mawangdui in Changsha, Hunan Province and the tomb of Qin and Han Dynasty in Jiangling, Hubei Province are the most abundant and have the most complete variety, including plain yarn single garment weighing only 49 grams, ear cup shaped rhomboid flower pattern, flower pattern of pairs of birds, hidden flower pattern and peacock pattern premium jacquard silk fabrics such as brocade, brocade and velvet circle brocade. There are also precious printed silk fabrics such as printed colored yarns and mud gold and silver yarns discovered for the first time. Han Dynasty fabrics unearthed along the Silk Road are brilliant. In 1959, the Eastern Han Dynasty Mu was unearthed from Niya Site in Minfeng, Xinjiang. There were brocade robes of “everlasting happiness” in official style, and brocade gloves and socks of “prolonging life and great suitability for descendants”. The wool products contain E 4 common types of tortoiseshell four petals, E 4 common types of human and animal grape, Mauro and carpet. Batik cotton prints and plain cotton fabrics were first found here.
Song dynasty
The textile industry in the Song Dynasty had expanded to 43 prefectures in the country, with the focus moving south to Jiangsu and Zhejiang. Among the silk fabrics, flowers and damask are the most common. More than 200 pieces of clothing of various kinds were unearthed from Huang Sheng Tomb of Song Dynasty. The rib structure has two, three and four strands.There are all kinds of floral patterns, such as plain, floating, twill, and varying twill, as well as the drop flow between thick and fine weft water jacquard Ro, etc. Ayaname pattern to peony, peony, rose hibiscus, chrysanthemum and so on as the main pattern. In addition to the first ten of the pine bamboo plum satin. Printing and dyeing products have developed into a variety of printing technologies, such as mud gold, tracing gold, printing gold, gold paste, and color application. The Kesi of the Song Dynasty is the most exquisite with Zhukerou's “Lieng Khouang Duck Map”, which is famous both at home and abroad. In the Song Dynasty, cotton fabric developed rapidly and replaced hemp fabric as the clothing material for the masses. Songjiang cotton fabric was praised as “the clothing of the world”.
Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties
The most famous textile of the Yuan Dynasty is Zhijin brocade. Xinjiang salt Lake in 1970 out of 17 gold brocade brocade, straight through the silk. The diameter is 0.15 mm, the diameter of the weft wire is 0.5 mm, and the warp and weft density is 52 and 48 per cntimeters. The warp and weft density of Nianjin Zhijin brocade is 65 sticks per cntimeters and 40 sticks per cntimeters, making it more magnificent. Five regular satin patterns were unearthed for the first time from the Yuan Tomb in Zou County, Shandong province. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, the tributes produced by Jiangnan Three-weaving which is Jiangning, Suzhou and Hangzhou were the highest, with various patterns of makeup yarn, makeup silk, makeup brocade, makeup satin and so on. Shu Brocade, Song brocade, weaving brocade and Makeup brocade which is named Yun Brocade, which are rich in traditional ethnic characteristics, are called the "four famous brocade". In 1958, 165 rolls of brocade and more than 200 pieces of brocade were unearthed from Ming Dingling Mausoleum in Beijing. For the first time, the real objects of single-sided and double-sided velvet were found. One piece of velvet had a warp and weft density of 64 and 36 pieces per cntimeters, silk. The height of the pile is 0.2 mm. The production of cotton goods has spread throughout the country. In the late Ming Dynasty, the government alone needed 15 million to 20 million pieces of cotton cloth. Exquisite and luxurious silk goods were exported to Asian and European countries through the land and maritime Silk Roads.

