'Game-Changing' Biosynthetic Fibers

'Game-Changing' Biosynthetic Fibers

A 2021 report by the Biomicry Institute titled The Nature of Fashion shows that more than 60% of textile fibers are synthetic fibers derived from petrochemicals. Whether made from recycled or untreated raw materials, petrochemical fibers are not biodegradable. Additionally, the manufacture of these fibers releases greenhouse gases, chemicals and other harmful substances that remain in our soil, air and water, and a new generation of biosynthetic polymers and fibers could be the solution to this conundrum .

Biosynthetic fibers are made from biomaterials, including food waste, algae, castor oil or recycled cotton fabrics, and can be engineered as "substitutes" for traditional polyester and nylon. While not all biosynthetic fibers are biodegradable, they do avoid the use of petrochemical fibers.

New fiber for "carbon-free" material

Created from third generation polymers from cellulosic feedstocks, including algae, sugar cane, straw and hemp—which capture carbon during their growth cycles—AeoniQ is designed to perform comparably to polyester, nylon and regenerated cellulosics.

HeiQ calls the new yarn a "game changer for the entire textile industry" because it can be recycled repeatedly without compromising quality. At present, LYCRA has become its investment partner, and high-end clothing brand Hugo Boss has also announced that it will cooperate with HeiQ on its first sustainability-related investment project.

Cellulose filament

Researchers at the Dunkendorf Institute for Textile Fibres (DITF) in Germany have developed a technology called HighPerCell (HPC). The technology uses ionic liquids to produce continuous filament fibers from cellulose.

DITF has used hemp stalk as the raw material for its HighPerCell fibers. This process is an environmentally friendly alternative to the widely used viscose process. Ionic liquids are non-toxic and non-flammable, and can be easily recycled later. Spinned from cellulose raw materials such as wood pulp, hemp, and chitin (usually extracted from shrimp cells), HPC fibers are characterized by high strength and are suitable for technical applications.

Apparel and waste fabrics of cotton or regenerated cellulose at end of life can also be recycled by the HPC technology. DITF recently started a collaboration with the newly founded Technikum Laubholz for the pilot production of HPC and HPCCarbon fibers.

Products made from HPC fibers are both recyclable and biodegradable, said Dr. Antje Ota, deputy director of the DITF Center for Biopolymer Materials. Clothing and discarded cotton or regenerated cellulose fabrics can also be recycled by HPC technology after use. DITF has recently started a collaboration with the newly established Laubholz Technologies for the pilot production of HPC and HPCCarbon fibers.

Global carbon capture specialist LanzaTech has developed a process for making textile fibers from industrial emissions and gasified municipal waste.

Bacteria convert pollutants into fuels and chemicals such as ethanol. For the production of biosynthetic polyester, intermediate partners India Glycols Ltd. and Far Eastern New Century (FENC) use ethylene glycol to produce polyester yarns and textiles. While carbon-based polyester fibers are not biodegradable, garments can be recycled through the same process after use.

“By recycling carbon emissions, we are replacing the virgin fossil fuel carbon taken out of the ground,” explains LanzaTech chief sustainability officer Freya Burton. “Consumers can now choose where the carbon in their clothing comes from. The concept is so new, we are all trying to figure out how to get the message across.”

LanzaTech craftsmanship has been successfully proven in capsule collections by sportswear brand Lululemon and global fast fashion retailer Zara. “By recycling carbon emissions, we are replacing virgin fossil fuel carbon,” explained LanzaTech Chief Sustainability Officer Freya Burton. "Consumers can now choose where the carbon in their clothing comes from. The concept is so new, and we're all working hard to get that message across to consumers better."